In the owner's manual look on page 11 at the graphic of the control board. Power off. Remove only the access panel, the panel opposite the outlet tubes. Never remove the front Logo panel. Look inside to your left, take the 1/4" nylon nut from the dust cover, move the switch up one place for hotter, down one for less hot and give it a try. Replace the dust cover and access panel.

The Sidewinder can only process what is put into it. It may be that you need to get rid of your waste and start fresh. We have, in the past run into a PPG product (primer???) that has resulted in discolored solvent and the people set up a timer that would limit the batch time and turn off power to the unit at about seven hours as the reaction to the PPG comes at the end of the batch.

Additionally remember that a bucket with a processing bag should be used and it should be at least 4 inches from the top. If the unit has had spills inside then run clean solvent over and over until clear.

For more help please email Mike@solvent-recycler.com or call 702-362-9432

1. Disconnect power.
2. Remove the access panel (not front panel). Take out eight phillips screws and the panel slides down.
3. Remove the ¼" nylon nut holding the dust cover over the control board (on/off switch circuit board) and remove the dust cover.
4. Remove (unplug) and replace the old "Red" and/or "Black" thermistor assembly connectors with the new.
5. Remove the 4" x 6" cover from the rear of the heating vessel skin.
6. Remove the insulation plug behind the cover.
7. Use the old "Red" and/or "Black" assembly to fish in the new one and carefully place it in the same position, under the spring strap.
8. Replace the insulation plug and cover.
9. Reverse steps 3 through 1.

1. Disconnect power.
2. Remove the access panel (not front panel). Take out eight phillips screws and the panel slides down.
3. Remove the ¼" nylon nut holding the dust cover over the control board (on/off switch circuit board) and remove the dust cover.
4. Remove (unplug) and replace the old "Blue" thermistor assembly connector with the new.
5. Trace the "Blue" thermistor wires to their other end and you'll find that the end is taped into a small hole on a brass elbow that enters the evaporator.
6. To remove the tape, it is best to slide a pocket knife up under all the wraps of tape at one time then carefully slice outwards cutting the whole wrap of tape at once.
7. Insert the new "Blue" thermistor end into the hole in the brass elbow and tape in place securely. The tape will set upon heating up.
8. Reverse steps 3 through 1.

1. Disconnect power.
2. Remove the access panel (not front panel). Take out eight phillips screws and the panel slides down.
3. Remove the cover from the rectangular junction box located above the compressor unit.
4. Unplug the heater wire connector. It is the only two wire connector with fiber insulated wires.
5. Place your ohm meter probes inside the male connector so that you are reading through the two wires to the heater.
6. You should read between 14 & 15 ohms.

1. Disconnect power.
2. Remove the access panel (not front panel). Take out eight phillips screws and the panel slides down.
3. Remove the ¼" nylon nut holding the dust cover and remove the dust cover.
4. Refer to page 11 of your owner's manual. Find the LED marked VT on the control board diagram and then locate the same point on the control board mounted in the unit on the inside front panel.
5. Directly above the "VT LED" is a 2 pin jumper placed on just one pin. Pull it off the one pin and replace it on to both pins.
6. Connect to power and be sure that the red LED on the front panel above and left of the on/off switch is illuminated.
7. Wait. The refrigeration unit should come on after approx. 10 minutes. Let run for 15 minutes.
8. Touch the capillary tube (coiled up narrow copper tube) at the area where it enters the evaporator (the stainless canister with tubes). It should be noticeably cooler than the surrounding area.
9. If all goes right to here we can assume that your refrigeration unit is working fine.
10. Disconnect power.
11. Pull the 2 pin jumper off the two pins and replace it back on just one pin.
12. Replace the dust cover.

1. Disconnect power.
2. Remove the access panel (not front panel). Take out eight phillips screws and the panel slides down.
3. Remove the ¼" nylon nut holding the dust cover and remove the dust cover.
4. Remove (unplug) and replace the old "White" thermistor assembly connector with the new.
5. Trace the "White" thermistor wires to their other end and you'll find that the sensor end is clamped into place on the center evaporator tube using 2 spring clamps. Replace with the new.
6. Reverse steps 3 through 1.

1. Remove all screws from upper collar, lower pan, and seam of skin.
2. Compress skin inward (this will also compress the insulation behind the skin).
3. Slide skin up.
4. Pull apart bottom of seam and lift out one end. Continue pulling out skin until the vapor tube is exposed. (Don't take the skin all of the way off)
5. Unscrew compression fittings to free the end of the vapor tubes
6. Take off the access panel
7. Unscrew the fittings going into the evaporator to free the other end of the vapor tubes.
8. Remove the vapor tubes.
9. Blow air through the outlet tubes on the back of the machine to clear any clogs in the bottom fittings.
10. Blow air through the holes inside of the pot to clear any clogs in the top fittings.
11. Blow out vapor tubes to clear any clogs.
12. Once free of clogs, put vapor tubes back in place.
13. Before putting the skin back on, hold your thumb over each of the outlet tubes and pour solvent into each of the holes inside of the pot. Look for leaks.
14. If leaking, you will need a new vapor tube. If not leaking, replace skin by reversing steps 1-4.

1. Simple , quick test using clean thinner/solvent.
2. Remove the lid.
3. Pour a quart or 2 of clean thinner/solvent into the lower output hole inside the heating vessel.
4. It should run right out the lower clean solvent outlet tube without restriction.
5. If it is just dripping you have a clog!
6. Next is a test using air.
7. Plug the upper output hole inside the heating vessel.
8. Plug the upper clean solvent outlet tube.
9. Use proper eye protection.
10. Direct a short, low pressure blast (25 psi) of compressed air into the lower clean solvent outlet tube.
11. There should be no restriction of air flow between the lower clean solvent outlet tube and the lower output hole inside the heating vessel.
12. Next, remove the plugs on the upper output hole inside the heating vessel & the upper clean solvent outlet tube.
13. Plug the lower output hole inside the heating vessel.
14. Plug the lower clean solvent outlet tube.
15. Use proper eye protection.
16. Direct a short, low pressure blast (25 psi) of compressed air into the upper clean solvent outlet tube.
17. There should be no restriction of air flow between the upper clean solvent outlet tube and the upper output hole inside the heating vessel.
18. If you find any restriction of air flow between the clean solvent outlet tubes and the output holes inside the heating vessel contact the factory for cleanup instructions.

Please read these instructions through once, then follow, step by step.

Tools required are phillips screw driver and ¼" nut driver.

1. Disconnect power.
2. Remove the access panel (not front panel). Take out eight phillips screws and the panel slides down.
3. Remove the ¼" nylon nut holding the dust cover and remove the dust cover.
4. Using a ¼" nut driver, remove the four ¼" nylon nuts holding the control board and pull the circuit board from the mounting posts.
5. Take note of the blue polarity marks on the six wire power supply assembly and it's mating connector. (white, red, blue, yellow, black, orange wire assembly). Unplug the six wire power supply assembly. Slide the wire connector toward the wire side to remove. Do not pull on wires.
6. Note the color coordination of the four thermistor assembly wire pairs and the matching color lacquer markings on their mating connectors and their position laying behind the "Y" seal fitting.
7. Lift the four thermistor assembly wire pairs up and over to the front of the "Y" seal fitting.
8. Unplug the four thermistor assembly wire pairs. Slide the wire connectors toward the wire side to remove. Do not pull on wires.
9. To replace the control board, match the color coordination markings and replace the four thermistor assembly wire pairs first. Lift the four thermistor assembly wire pairs up and over to the back of the "Y" seal fitting.
10. After the four thermistor assembly wire pairs are in place behind the "Y" connector, match the blue polarity marks for the six wire poser supply assembly and replace it.
11. Position the circuit board and place it back on the mounting posts. Check the front cover for proper switch alignment and operation. Secure with four ¼" nylon nuts.
12. Reverse steps 3 through 1.

M-2 & M-c3

1. Disconnect power.
2. Remove the access panel (not front panel). Take out eight phillips screws and the panel slides down.
3. Remove the cover from the rectangular junction box location above the compressor unit.
4. Take note of the white polarity marks on the small six wire connector.
5. Slide the wire connectors toward the wire side to loosen. Do not pull on wires.
6. Remove the screws from the mounts.
7. The board is longer than the opening in the box. So push the post side back into the right corner and pull the left bracket side toward you while threading the wire connectors out of the way.
8. Inspect all connectors for loose wires and pins.
9. To replace the power board. First plug the two wire heater wire connector into the circuit board then push the post side of the circuit board into the right corner of the box. While threading the other wire connectors over the front of the circuit board, push the left side of the circuit board into place.
10. Plug in the other two connectors. Make sure the white polarity marks are aligned on the small six wire connector.
11. Replace the mounting screws and replace the cover to the junction box.

From time to time it may be necessary to test the refrigeration unit when your other controls are out or damaged.

When all circuit boards are removed and/or wire ends are secured so that they can't short to ground, make a temporary connect directly to the yellow and white wires that go to the refrigeration unit using a cord that can be plugged into a standard 110-120v outlet. Plug it in and observe, it may blow a breaker, it may turn on the unit. If it turns on feel at the end of the capillary tube coil that goes away from you horizontally into the evaporator. It should get noticeably colder.

There are 3 different beep tones 2 with interrupted tones and one steady uninterrupted. tone.

The most common cause of the interrupted tones is a blown F-4 fuse and dirty or blocked up condenser fins also check for build-up of debris on the fan blade. Look at page 9-11 in your manual. Do not remove the front panel that has the on/off switch. The side panel with the serial number is the access panel.

Steady uninterrupted tone. Missing or dead sensor. Do not remove the front panel that has the on/off switch. The side panel with the serial number is the access panel. Looking into the cabinet, which of the 4 bottom edge right side LEDs is lit on the control board. They correspond to the colored thermistors. Check page 11 in the manual to understand markings.

If it is a blown f-3 most likely you need a replacement Red thermistor it is highly advisable to keep the black and red thermistor from the same lot so both should be ordered.